Tuesday, April 18, 2023

Leaving Ecuador

 We are back home in Olympia! After one night of barking dogs at the don't-pee-standing-up signage place and a stressful exchange with our taxi driver who wanted to overcharge us by almost 25% (we had trouble even getting a taxi at the airport, but that's another story), we decided that the downtown Hilton would be a better option than the Airbnb, so we moved locations. It was a good choice. 

A stormy downtown Quito

The Airbnb itself was nice, though the description online was a bit misleading. The host's husband helped us get some pizza delivery, which was super nice. 

Richard went out and got food and flowers! (Of course, there is more signage on the windows!)

These stairs up to the terrace were a bit crazy with no handrail

The Airbnb did have a great view!

We'll see what the next adventure holds! 


Wednesday, April 12, 2023

German/Ecuadorian airbnb

 The last two nights we decided to stay outside of Quito and closer to the airport. We chose a cute but “interesting” mix of German and Ecuadorian culture. Sort of laid back while “these are the rules and there will be a exam in 4.8 minutes”.

In my exam preparation, a pee was required only to be met by:


At first I thought it unusual to tell someone not to pee on a computer but clearly the sign was made by someone with a one centimeter urethra.Once I understood the message I drank extra water just for the enjoyment of an activity that was verboten.

Also, there were various signs/writings of what to not do. Images of the world’s best apple cake from Namibia returned and sleeping was difficult thinking about the world’s smallest toilet plunger in the bathroom and how I could attack even the tiniest of turds with it  

Did I mention I chose Colombia but was overruled for Ecuador?





Not sure how to use a plastic bottle instead of a towel but it didn’t work for me. 










Saturday, April 8, 2023

Cuenca Museum Day

 Two posts in a row!

Thursday our plan was to stroll around and visit some museums, but first, we had to start with chocolate made from Ecuadorian cacao at Paccari cafe!

The Paccari cafe building with early 20th century architectural detail and decor—painted tiles, frescos, chandeliers and narrow staircases

Even the bathrooms are elegant

After our hot chocolate and brownie, we walked over to tthe Cuenca Bienal Arts building. The city hosts a biennial art contest for Latin American artists. The offices for the biennial contest are located in an historic building with beautiful ornate tiles and murals. The city arts organization purchased and refurbished the building and now give tours. It was initially the residence of a photographer named Pasántez León and his family. He used the murals as backdrops for some of his pictures.


The inner atrium

The family had to sell part of the house at one point. Here’s where they put the dividing wall!

We continued our walk through the Plaza de San Sebastián.

A few blocks of walking and we came upon the Mirador del Barranco viewpoint overlooking the Rio Tomebamba. This plaza-like area is also the street of quirky art:



A beautiful view of the city and mountains 

Pots and pans up top— hmmm?


The Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla was our next stop. First though there was the drama of the fender bender. Actually the dent was almost nonexistent. 

We were curious to see how everything would turn out, though. We hung out for a few minutes watching and listening to the symphony of honks and horn blasts. In the end, the bus driver just got back into the bus and left.

Our first stop on Calle Largo after wading through the crowds at the bus stops, wasn’t quite what we thought it would be. We thought it would be… well, a museum. Really it was a big hat shop posing as a museum. I was disappointed because I’ve been hoping at every turn to see up close how these hats are woven from start to finish. We browsed and then continued onward.

Another museum I had on my list to see was the Centro Interamericano de Artes Populares (CIDAP). 

I read that CIDAP was a museum of women’s traditional textile work. Alas, it was a small exhibit with some, but not much, contemporary pieces of folk and textile art, with some for sell. I enjoyed looking, but I was done quickly. 


We headed down Hermano Miguel Street to wind our way back to the hotel and look for a place to get a late lunch along the way. This was the street of bookstores! I was very happy to see them and popped in one of them to browse. Richard had a different reaction to my enthusiasm:


A couple of shops further down, Richard found a wonderful restaurant, Warmikuna Cocina Taller. The proprietor offers cooking classes in addition to a great lunch. I had quinoa and Richard had goat stew. For a drink I ordered something called Yaguana.

 It was so good! And it was neon purple! The ingredients were some things I’d never heard of—ataco and babaco for starters. I asked the server what these ingredients were, so she took me over to the kitchen and showed me. The ataco was a bright red frozen juice made from steeping small amaranth berries, if I understood correctly. There was an Amazonian fruit similar to cinnamon. There was also something like tapioca pearls. I am always grateful when someone takes the time to explain things to me. 







Earlier in the week, we took one of those double decker bus tours to see the city. Here are some pics:








Gualaceo, Chordeleg, Sigsig and Bartólome

Weaving a traditional Ikat pattern on the harness loom

 On Wednesday we took a day trip to some nearby towns. We made a loop: Gualaceo, Chordeleg, Sisgsig, and Bartólome. We hired Milton Ortiz to drive us. (He is an awesome driver and tour guide, by the way. In fact, we’ve asked him if he’d do another tour for us down to Nábon and Saraguro. We’re on for Sunday! If you ever need a driver in Cuenca, contact me for his WhatsApp.)

Step one, organizing the threads. Fibers are cotton or wood chip. Organized threads are bunched together and tied with strips of yucca plant, a bit like tie dye, color only sets on the exposed thread, leaving the sections of thread under the yucca ties the original color.

Each town is especially known for particular crafts and products: Gualaceo for Ikat textiles and flowers, Chordeleg for silver filigree, Sissig for the straw-woven sombreros, ie Panama hats, and Bartólome for handmade guitars. 


Learning about natural dyes


Cochineal—the prickly pear insect dried and pounded into powder for red. Mix it with baking soda or lime and get orange or purple!

It was a beautiful drive in the Andes, scenic, with bright morning sun and dark afternoon rain. 

Milton brought us to the best places! Just outside Gualaceo, we toured a family’s Ikat weaving business and they showed us how they use traditional dyes and hand weave fabrics on a harness loom. 


The fringes are hand knotted 

Finished!

In Chordeleg, we stopped at a silversmith’s workshop and saw how he intricately shaped filigree from threads of silver using hundreds of small pieces for some of the designs.
Chordeleg 
How silver filigree is made into amazing designs

In Sigsig, we went to the women’s cooperative to see how their famous straw hats get finished and steamed into shape. The hats are all handwoven by women in the area. 

Richard and his helper checking out hats
Hats in process

We also stopped for lunch in Sigsig. Milton took us to the indoor fruit and vegetable market where food stalls line the upper floor and there’s seating cafeteria style with a view to the market below.

On our way to Bartólome, we stopped for thick tostadas and hot chocolate at the side of the road. Then we headed to a guitar workshop. 


One of the craftsmen showed us how he placed inlay and how they hand-shaped curved with a thick, heated  iron baton clapped to the table and water sprinkled to continuously steam and and work against the baton to curve the thin wood. 

Last stop of the day — Bartólome for the guitars. Rain is on the way.

How could we not buy a small instrument for grand baby? Future family musician! 😊