Saturday, April 8, 2023

Cuenca Museum Day

 Two posts in a row!

Thursday our plan was to stroll around and visit some museums, but first, we had to start with chocolate made from Ecuadorian cacao at Paccari cafe!

The Paccari cafe building with early 20th century architectural detail and decor—painted tiles, frescos, chandeliers and narrow staircases

Even the bathrooms are elegant

After our hot chocolate and brownie, we walked over to tthe Cuenca Bienal Arts building. The city hosts a biennial art contest for Latin American artists. The offices for the biennial contest are located in an historic building with beautiful ornate tiles and murals. The city arts organization purchased and refurbished the building and now give tours. It was initially the residence of a photographer named Pasántez León and his family. He used the murals as backdrops for some of his pictures.


The inner atrium

The family had to sell part of the house at one point. Here’s where they put the dividing wall!

We continued our walk through the Plaza de San Sebastián.

A few blocks of walking and we came upon the Mirador del Barranco viewpoint overlooking the Rio Tomebamba. This plaza-like area is also the street of quirky art:



A beautiful view of the city and mountains 

Pots and pans up top— hmmm?


The Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla was our next stop. First though there was the drama of the fender bender. Actually the dent was almost nonexistent. 

We were curious to see how everything would turn out, though. We hung out for a few minutes watching and listening to the symphony of honks and horn blasts. In the end, the bus driver just got back into the bus and left.

Our first stop on Calle Largo after wading through the crowds at the bus stops, wasn’t quite what we thought it would be. We thought it would be… well, a museum. Really it was a big hat shop posing as a museum. I was disappointed because I’ve been hoping at every turn to see up close how these hats are woven from start to finish. We browsed and then continued onward.

Another museum I had on my list to see was the Centro Interamericano de Artes Populares (CIDAP). 

I read that CIDAP was a museum of women’s traditional textile work. Alas, it was a small exhibit with some, but not much, contemporary pieces of folk and textile art, with some for sell. I enjoyed looking, but I was done quickly. 


We headed down Hermano Miguel Street to wind our way back to the hotel and look for a place to get a late lunch along the way. This was the street of bookstores! I was very happy to see them and popped in one of them to browse. Richard had a different reaction to my enthusiasm:


A couple of shops further down, Richard found a wonderful restaurant, Warmikuna Cocina Taller. The proprietor offers cooking classes in addition to a great lunch. I had quinoa and Richard had goat stew. For a drink I ordered something called Yaguana.

 It was so good! And it was neon purple! The ingredients were some things I’d never heard of—ataco and babaco for starters. I asked the server what these ingredients were, so she took me over to the kitchen and showed me. The ataco was a bright red frozen juice made from steeping small amaranth berries, if I understood correctly. There was an Amazonian fruit similar to cinnamon. There was also something like tapioca pearls. I am always grateful when someone takes the time to explain things to me. 







Earlier in the week, we took one of those double decker bus tours to see the city. Here are some pics:








Gualaceo, Chordeleg, Sigsig and Bartólome

Weaving a traditional Ikat pattern on the harness loom

 On Wednesday we took a day trip to some nearby towns. We made a loop: Gualaceo, Chordeleg, Sisgsig, and Bartólome. We hired Milton Ortiz to drive us. (He is an awesome driver and tour guide, by the way. In fact, we’ve asked him if he’d do another tour for us down to Nábon and Saraguro. We’re on for Sunday! If you ever need a driver in Cuenca, contact me for his WhatsApp.)

Step one, organizing the threads. Fibers are cotton or wood chip. Organized threads are bunched together and tied with strips of yucca plant, a bit like tie dye, color only sets on the exposed thread, leaving the sections of thread under the yucca ties the original color.

Each town is especially known for particular crafts and products: Gualaceo for Ikat textiles and flowers, Chordeleg for silver filigree, Sissig for the straw-woven sombreros, ie Panama hats, and Bartólome for handmade guitars. 


Learning about natural dyes


Cochineal—the prickly pear insect dried and pounded into powder for red. Mix it with baking soda or lime and get orange or purple!

It was a beautiful drive in the Andes, scenic, with bright morning sun and dark afternoon rain. 

Milton brought us to the best places! Just outside Gualaceo, we toured a family’s Ikat weaving business and they showed us how they use traditional dyes and hand weave fabrics on a harness loom. 


The fringes are hand knotted 

Finished!

In Chordeleg, we stopped at a silversmith’s workshop and saw how he intricately shaped filigree from threads of silver using hundreds of small pieces for some of the designs.
Chordeleg 
How silver filigree is made into amazing designs

In Sigsig, we went to the women’s cooperative to see how their famous straw hats get finished and steamed into shape. The hats are all handwoven by women in the area. 

Richard and his helper checking out hats
Hats in process

We also stopped for lunch in Sigsig. Milton took us to the indoor fruit and vegetable market where food stalls line the upper floor and there’s seating cafeteria style with a view to the market below.

On our way to Bartólome, we stopped for thick tostadas and hot chocolate at the side of the road. Then we headed to a guitar workshop. 


One of the craftsmen showed us how he placed inlay and how they hand-shaped curved with a thick, heated  iron baton clapped to the table and water sprinkled to continuously steam and and work against the baton to curve the thin wood. 

Last stop of the day — Bartólome for the guitars. Rain is on the way.

How could we not buy a small instrument for grand baby? Future family musician! 😊





Friday, April 7, 2023

Cuenca Arrival

Looking toward the cathedral and the park from our balcony

We got into Cuenca late on Sunday and spent Monday strolling in the neighborhood and relaxing. We’re staying at the Itza Hotel. The rooms are spacious and beautiful. It’s quiet. We have a tub. Heaven!

We’re only a block from Parque Calderón, right in the middle of the historic center.


 The tram runs right next to us, and the streets and parks are full of people. I couldn’t even begin to count all of the ice cream, dessert, and coffee shops around here. 

Monday night we had a nice dinner near one of the courtyards we had seen on an earlier walk. 

I also had a wonderful birthday surprise with flowers delivered to the door!



The pictures don’t do the hotel’s staircase justice:






Thursday, April 6, 2023

San Cristóbal and Saying Goodbye to the Galapagos



Our hotel—the place to hang out in Puerto Ayora

After a week on the water, we returned to Puerto Ayora for one last night. Our small hotel had all the important things— air conditioning, a semi-comfy bed, a very nice person at the front desk, and a price under $50 per night. We bought ferry tickets to San Cristóbal, and then almost certainly did something else important, and then we headed over to our favorite gelato shop! (The most important stuff always stays with me.)

Queuing for the ferry to San Cristóbal

 Our ferry was at 3pm the next day. We spent the morning at the hotel, hanging out in the common area with our bags, trying to stay connected to the internet so we could catch up on the news. Around 1:30p we got a taxi to the ferry—think speed boat, not Seattle ferry. It was about a two-hour trip between islands.

San Cristóbal was easy going. We wandered around, checked out the rocky beach and sea lions and found a couple of places for dinner. Both the places we liked were simple with just a few things on the menu. We stopped at a nice beach-front restaurant on our last day to watch the sea lions and the sunset.



Richard points out a few things for Darwin

San Cristóbal at dusk 

Darwin again!



Giant lobsters and tsunami signs

Watching sea lions play as the sun goes down